Comfort food
in Frankford

By Diane Prokop
Times Staff Writer

From early in its history, the Society of Friends has been instrumental in shaping the foundation of Frankford.
More than 320 years later, a different kind of Friends is hoping to help shape the historic neighborhood’s comeback.
Eddie Stew, proprietor of the Friends Restaurant and Lounge, plans to open his soul-food eatery in the coming weeks at the former site of mozaic, at 4524 Frankford Ave.
"I really see Friends being a major part of the revitalization. It will be good not only for Frankford but for the city," Stew said.
In December, owner Joan Oliveto closed mozaic, the restaurant she opened in September 2006. Beyond its popular menu, mozaic became a cultural haven in Frankford, showcasing the works of local artists on its walls and a program of Saturday-night jazz performances on its stage, including legendary jazz drummer and Frankford resident Butch Ballard, who was filmed there in recent months for a documentary.
In the end, Oliveto said, she just couldn’t build the traffic to keep mozaic’s financial books in the black. But the greeting she’d posted on the door to her eatery — "Peace to all who enter" — will continue to welcome diners and patrons of the arts under Stew’s operation of Friends.
"We will continue to display the works of local artists. It’s really quite simple. We’re sticking to the whole friendly atmosphere," Stew said.
He’ll also host live entertainment — not only jazz nights but comedy and karaoke nights as well.
"We want to develop a friendly atmosphere to eat and enjoy," Stew said.
Liz McCollum-Nazario, president of the Frankford Business and Professional Association, is more than happy to roll out the red carpet for Friends.
"I’m very excited that there is another restaurant at that venue," McCollum-Nazario said. "We were all sad to see mozaic close, but Joan opened the eyes of Frankford that we can move forward. I’m looking forward to welcoming them to the business community."
Other Frankford merchants had high hopes for mozaic’s arrival on the commercial strip; one shop owner even described it as the "last wind in the sails" of the struggling Frankford business community. Oliveto reluctantly ended the restaurant’s 16-month chapter at a time when Frankford was making strides in its rejuvenation.
"A lot of people felt like they may have lost a little bit of hope," McCollum-Nazario said. "Seeing a restaurant opening again, it doesn’t mean it’s the end of Frankford’s revitalization. Joan did a lot to bring the attention to Frankford."
One of those people was Stew, who hails from West Philadelphia. While not naive about the challenges of operating a successful restaurant, Stew is confident he can achieve that at his location under the El.
"Frankford is one of the next up-and-coming neighborhoods in the city," Stew said.
He’s betting his soul-food restaurant will be a good fit for the community. When patrons visit Friends, Stew and head chef Richard Brooks want people to think they’re sitting at their momma’s table.
Soul food is all about comfort food, and Friends will serve a lot of it — from macaroni and cheese to candied yams, collard greens, mashed potatoes and rice and gravy. And they’re just the side dishes.
The entrees will include chicken breasts or wings, turkey chops, turkey wings, roast beef, barbecue beef ribs, fried fish and jumbo shrimp. Two side dishes are included with the meals, in the $10 to $14 price range.
"It’s all original recipes, at that," Stew said.
With more than 30 years of culinary experience, Stew’s friend Brooks is the restaurant’s head chef. Two other chef friends also will work in the Friends kitchen.
Brooks, originally from Atlanta, Ga., worked for several years in New Orleans and is well-grounded in Cajun and Creole cooking. He expects to add jambalaya with a gumbo soup to the menu.
"I want the dishes to be tantalizing," Brooks said.
According to Brooks, if you’re yearning for great Cajun gumbo, you’ll be able to get it at Friends.
"As the song says, ‘You can’t touch this,’" Brooks said.
Friends will be a BYOB until Stew can obtain a liquor license. The proprietor will also offer discounts to all hospital, SEPTA and city workers. ••
Friends Restaurant and Lounge will be open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Saturday, with extended hours for special events. Reservations will be accepted by calling 215-288-2177.
Reporter Diane Prokop can be reached at 215-354-3036 or dprokop@phillynews.com