A pilgrimage to Turkey

By Lauren Fritsky
Times Staff Writer

Holy Family religion professor Joseph Stoutzenberger did have second thoughts about embarking on his trip to Turkey on Sept. 1.
Just days earlier, three people were killed and 27 others were injured in a series of explosions that rocked the mostly Muslim country, which is about the size of Texas. Turkey lies in a precarious geographical position — it borders Iraq and Iran — and there is fighting among its political factions.
"A friend of mine asked if I had a will," said Stoutzenberger, 59.
But the teacher cooled his jets and flew with a few other Americans to the ancient land, which lies in both Asia and Europe. He returned Sept. 10, pleasantly overwhelmed — and jetlagged — from the journey.
"I realized you can’t appreciate another culture until you’ve seen it," Stoutzenberger said.
Interfaith dialogue interests the Holy Family instructor of 14 years. Last year, he discovered the Philadelphia Dialog Forum, a non-profit group that encourages understanding among different faiths and cultures. The forum hosts discussions, events and trips throughout the year and seeks teachers and students to participate.
Stoutzenberger, a Catholic, has traveled overseas before, but mostly to Buddhist countries like Taiwan. He wanted to visit a Muslim country to expand his understanding of that religion and the culture of its people.
The group, sponsored by Turkish businesses during the trip, paid for nothing except airfare. One of the guides, a Muslim woman, spoke at Holy Family Sept. 18.
Stoutzenberger visited the cities of Istanbul, Konya and Izmir, and the country’s Cappadocia region during his busy excursion. Turkey, he learned, strikes a happy medium between old and new.
"Turkey blends together the modern and the ancient," he said. "They’re dedicated to maintaining their heritage."
In some respects, the country seemed more advanced. In hotels, hallway lights were motion activated. One hospital resembled a luxury hotel.
Stoutzenberger, however, was most excited to see the ancient Christian sites, including Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia Basilica.
"It was a magnificent church," Stoutzenberger said of Hagia Sophia. "They had beautiful mosaics."
Among other Christian findings were a street named after Pope John XXIII (Angelo Roncalli), who, as apostolic delegate to Turkey and Greece during World War II, helped protect Jewish refugees in Europe. He was pope from 1958 to 1963.
Perhaps the most captivating observation for Stoutzenberger, though, was prayer time at mosques.
"I had seen (Muslims) praying before," Stoutzenberger said. "But here, you’re talking hundreds of people."
While he mostly stood back and watched, Stoutzenberger did participate in prayer once, only slightly floundering with its synchronicity.
"The men touch shoulder to shoulder. I was like, ‘You’re invading my space!’ " Stoutzenberger said.
He was so taken with the concept of the Muslim prayer rug as "a portable mosque" that he bought one to show his students.
Cultural differences that struck Stoutzenberger were the residents’ extreme cleanliness and consistent consumption of tea.
"Even in alleys where it looks like the (South Philadelphia) Italian Market, there were boys carrying along cups and saucers. They have tea breaks," he explained.
They also have their own version of Coke, called "Turka" Cola.
"It tastes the same," Stoutzenberger affirmed.
And upon each new drink, waiters made sure the cups were meticulously washed.
Of course, Stoutzenberger also sampled plenty of rich Turkish food and navigated a bustling bazaar to buy his son a backgammon set, a game Turkish men frequently play outside. Overall, citizens appeared joyful.
"People in general seemed so happy," Stoutzenberger said. "That’s the point of these trips, to put a human face on a culture."
He gained knowledge and feels equipped to share it.
"I will use (the trip) in so many ways. I’ll be such a better teacher. I would love to go back with a group or without," he said. ••
For more information on Philadelphia Dialog Forum, visit their Web site at philadialogforum.org
Reporter Lauren Fritsky can be reached at 215-354-3038 or lfritsky@phillynews.com